Half past four
Faiz wakes without an alarm at half past four in the morning. It isn't willpower or a trained habit — it's a body thing that has been there as long as he can remember. At that hour Muscat hasn't yet decided whether it's going to be a bearable day or one of those that crack the asphalt. The air coming through the bedroom's open window smells of salt from the port and of incense from the neighbourhood, the bakhoor someone has burned early or that simply never quite left.
The Arabian red fox is crepuscular. In the desert, its activity peaks coincide with sunrise and sunset, the two hours when the temperature allows you to move without paying too high a price. The body still prefers half-light, even in the coastal cities of Oman.
Faiz makes coffee in the kitchen — Turkish, no sugar, in a copper pot he bought for three riyals at the souq. From the stool by the window he watches the Mutrah traffic start to move: delivery vans, the odd fisherman coming back from the port. He checks WhatsApp. The day's jobs. Sometimes three, sometimes six. In summer there can be ten.
He leaves the flat at quarter past five. Third floor, no lift. The door has a latch that turns by hand, no key. The neighbour on the second floor has told him several times: it's dangerous. Faiz smiles every time. If someone wants to come in, they'll come in. But he needs to be able to go out.
The burrows of the Arabian red fox have between two and four entrances. It isn't a whim — it's survival. Faiz's apartment works the same way. He chose it for the windows — large, east-facing, with cross-ventilation — and for the bedroom's ledge, which opens onto an alley and from which you can climb down to the street. He has no air conditioning. He, who installs and repairs climate control all over Muscat, lives with a Usha ceiling fan from the nineties that he repaired himself. What he says, when someone asks, is that the fan works fine. And it's true.