Tracks that don't cross
On Sundays, César takes the Honda CG125 — secondhand, black, rust on the exhaust — and rides to FRIM, the Forest Research Institute Malaysia. Twenty minutes by motorbike from his neighborhood. The tropical forest that begins where the outskirts of Kuala Lumpur end: trails between giant dipterocarps, tree ferns, cicadas that don't stop even in the rain.
Once he found fresh leopard prints in the mud on the trail. Hind prints, retractable claws not visible, trilobed pad. A melanistic leopard had passed through hours earlier. César crouched down, studied the tracks for ten minutes. Didn't take a photo. He stayed still, listening. The forest was quiet — a sign that the animal wasn't far.
He went back the following week. And the week after. He's never seen it. But every time, fresh tracks in different places.







