The Light at the Edge of the Track
Between Abanga and Ndjolé there are places where the train has no official stop: no platform, no sign with a name, nothing in the schedule that mentions it. People stand at the edge of the track with a kerosene lamp or the flashlight of a phone switched on, and Ndong brakes. Nobody has ever forbidden it in writing, and nobody has asked him to do it either. He waits while people load their bundles, counts who gets on, and starts moving again. It's the line people know him by all along the route, and he says it like he's giving an instruction: show me the light, and I'll stop. If you've ever lit up a train with your phone, you know not all of them stop.







