Heading out to watch with your father
It's still dark when Dolma sets off with her father, a forest guardian, on the dawn round across the hills of Darjeeling. They head out to watch: to see who's moving below, what changed during the night, what's there today that wasn't yesterday. She's a junior volunteer, the one who learns by tagging along, and for that a backpack comes in handy: it's the gear of someone who rises early to explore the forest slowly, in no hurry to get back.







